Adventure, Argentina

April, 2023

Today La Boca has several attractions that draw Argentinian and international tourists alike. However, this wasn’t always the case.  It began as a busy port with much of the work and services focusing on the shipping industry.  Those who lived here were immigrants in need of work and cheap accommodation who created a wonderful community for a time.  At the turn of the 19th century the construction of a new port meant the ships moved to another part of the city and new industries moved into La Boca – factories, meat curing plants and tanneries spewed their waste into the river.  Soon it became the most polluted place around.  Those who could afford it moved away and new immigrants took their places as La Boca went into decline.

Renewal

At the heart of bringing La Boca back from that stagnation to what you see today, is the famous Argentinian artist, Benito ‘Quinquela’ Martin.  As well as being a talented artist, his philanthropy was a big part of turning the community around (see post here).

Today the community feels bright and busy and there is a lot to look at as you walk around.  While there are warnings about not coming to this part of town at night, I still think it is a must see when in Buenos Aires.  The government even started cleaning up the waterway in 2009 and apparently the first live animal was seen in 2014. Today there are quite a few ducks on the water. Result!  The locals apparently still mistrust the water so you don’t see too much happening on it yet.  So what did I most enjoy as I wondered around La Boca on a sunny April day?

The Transporter Bridge 

A national historic monument, this bridge was inaugurated in 1914.  It needed to be high enough to give large ships clearance while also allowing traffic to cross from Buenos Aires to the island.  Quite novel, rather than the traffic crossing the bridge, the bridge crossed the river taking the traffic with it.  OK I couldn’t quite imagine how that worked, but knowing that so few of these bridges were made and only eight exist today, made it quite interesting.  This bridge is the only one in the Americas.  It no longer operated from 1960 and fell into disrepair.  In the early 90’s it was almost demolished, but thankfully saved for future generations to marvel at.

Caminito 

It is, perhaps, the most famous street in the whole of Buenos Aires due to its ‘Instagram-ability’.  Colorful painted tenement houses line both sides of the street, along with art work donated by Quinquela and his friends.  The story goes that there are so many colours because the paint was donated and was whatever was left over after commercial projects.  This open air street museum has hosted performances in the past to attract people back to the area.  The name Caminito was taken from a popular piece of tango music written by a close friend of Quinquela’s, Juan de Dios Filiberto.

Street Art

Street art always brings me joy and the La Boca art was no exception.  Whether it was telling the story of those strong women who, to this day, campaign to find out what happened to family members who ‘disappeared’ under the military rulers of the 70’s and 80’s, or to celebrate the ‘saint of the road’ that Rome doesn’t recognise, it is colourful and energized.

Street Art

The Famous Football Team

If you are into soccer/football, the chances that you have heard of La Boca Juniors (CABJ) are high.  Maradona played for this club twice including his very last season.  He is revered in the community and his face can be found often in the street art.

Colon Fabrica

This is the storage warehouse of the Argentinian Opera.  If you want to see beautiful costumes up close or large scale stage craft then this is the place!  Much of what you see is still made in the basement under the actual theatre, Teatro Colon, in Buenos Aires.  Some is made in workshops in the suburb of Chacarita.  But, once done, it is all stored here in La Boca.

Before the Colon Fabrica was created, sets and costumes were scrapped after an opera closed its run.  What a waste!!!!  They can now be reused, loaned to other opera houses around the country or put on display for us!

Its 7500 sqm will also allow the space to be used for fabrication tasks that need space e.g. painting Italian curtains which can exceed 300 sqm.  I think they have opportunity to do more with it from a visitor perspective, so I do hope it evolves over time.

Costumes in the Colon Fabrica

Benito Quinquela Martin Musuem

Well worth a visit if you want to understand more about the man who had a critical role in reclaiming La Boca.  The top floor was his home, and the gallery also holds some of his work and that of other important Argentinian artists.  Perhaps uniquely, there is also a collection of ship figureheads on display.  When the word got out that Quinquela wanted to preserve these works of art, everyone pitched in to help recover them – old builders, ship masters, boatmen, carpenters and divers went searching for these pieces of wood in order to save them.  It has become one of the most important figurehead collections in the world.

A Unique Collection

Watch Tango over Lunch

While it is very touristy, and there are better places to watch tango in my humble opinion, if you have the time, have a snack and watch this very assertive dance play out in front of you.

Whatever takes your fancy, there is a lot to see while strolling around La Boca.  Oh and if you have a sweet tooth, pop into one of the stores selling Dulche de Leche in a bottle.  You can often try a sample and it is SWEET!!!! 😊